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St. Lucia - February 2008

Bel Jou Hotel


One of the Windward Islands in the eastern Caribbean, the volcanic island of St Lucia lies between the Atlantic and the Caribbean seas. Settled briefly by the British in early 1600, the island changed hands between the British and the French some 14 times over the next 200 years, before it was finally captured by the British in 1803. It became an independent member of the Commonwealth on 22 February 1979.

The capital, and main port, of Castries, was founded in the 18th century by the French. Once a coaling port it is now both a commercial port and the centre of the cruise ship tourist industry. It can take up to 4 to 5 cruise ships at a time. Just to the south of Castries, at Grande Cul de Sac Bay, is one of the deepest and most modern oil tanker ports in the Americas. Tourism has been developed more strongly only over the past 10 years or so, since the banana plantations have in the past been severely affected by hurricanes.

Due to often mainly wooden construction, various fires have left Castries without many historic or ancient buildings. Of more recent construction are the commercial offices, supermarkets and building trade suppliers, banking centres and of course the Duty Free commercial outlets - the largest of which is Pointe Seraphine.

Apart from the more recent additions, roads are in poor condition, often narrow, with deep drainage ditches to cope with the tropical downpours. In St Lucia driving is on the left - mainly ! In view of the terrain there are many switchback roads, with death defying hairpin bends. The central rain forest is another tourist attraction.

The brightly painted shacks and local buildings with their colourful corrugated iron roofs, together with the bright outdoor markets and cheerful locals, give an immediate, but superficial, impression of carefree living. But closer examination reveals that there is still a considerable lack of local wealth on the island. The regular daily influx of cruise ship customers highlights the situation, but at least they help provide the necessary tourist revenue and employment for many locals, especially taxi drivers, as they spill out over the island.

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One of the many market areas ...............................

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A cruise ship dominates the skyline at Pointe Seraphine ..

Some of the more permanent buildings include public offices, financial institutions such as banks and commercial undertakings like the port offices and Duty Free shopping malls. Older buildings include the Catholic Church

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The Bel Jou Hotel is situated above Castries, up a steep, narrow road, with impressive views over the port and coastline. It will also be open to the public, for conferences, functions and the like.

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........................The main building ................................................................The Terrace rooms

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........ The pool and Terrace rooms from the Restaurant....................The restaurant balcony verandah

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Views from the Restaurant, looking down over the bay and Castries port ( part ).

Early morning call anyone ? ! ........................... One of the colourful inhabitants

 

Why doesn't that guy stop taking flash pictures of me ?

It hurts my eyes.

From Rodney Bay, a catamaran cruises down the western coastline to Soufrière, once renowned for sugar production - and also as a sulphur source following the early volcanic eruption. Now it boasts a drive in volcano, gardens and other tourist attractions. In particular, it is close to The Pitons, a well known landmark of the island.

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................Leaving Rodney Bay marina ..................................... Approaching Soufrière...The Pitons

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.......... Soufrière, with a glimpse of the Petit Piton .........................Part of the sea front

.............. Inside the volcano crater

Anse la Raye is a small fishing village north of Soufrière, noted for rum, creole cooking and street music and dancing on a Friday night.

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The beach at Anse la Raye ................................. and one of many wandering birds ....

...... The sea front market at Anse la Raye

 

Marigot Bay, further north again towards Castries is now a more classy resort and marina.

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Rodney Bay, Reduit Beach and Pigeon Island, to the north of Castries, are in another popular tourist area.

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....... Rodney Bay beach looking towards Pigeon Island ...............The Atlantic east of Pigeon Island

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The Reduit Beach end of Rodney Bay ...... away from the crowds

A sunset cruise on the Brig Unicorn, an 18th century style sailing ship ( as featured in the film Pirates of the Caribbean ) is another popular excursion - complete with steel band, rum punch and refreshments.

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The Brig ' Unicorn ' ......................................... Under sail ......

......... The end of the sunset cruise

Opinion: At present the main airport is stretched to cope when large 747s arrive - It took over an hour to clear passport control. Avoid the hotter / wetter months - with more mosquitoes, longer downpours and possible strong winds or hurricanes. Be prepared for a more casual approach to life. If out and about, be prepared for many poor, steep and winding narrow roads. Taxis are many and there is some 'local' transport ( 'buses' and ferries).

Hotel: A considerable number of steps and changing levels, both inside and outside, and no lift to the main building. At the time of writing the hotel courtesy bus ran only two days a week to Castries ( 1 morning, 1 afternoon ) On other days courtesy buses ran to Marigot Bay, or, Rodney Bay and Pigeon Island, ( again 1 morning, 1 afternoon ). There were no courtesy buses on Sunday. Wifi was available in the reception area. The bar facilities were good - and the dinner wine fair to good - the food likewise. The single rooms ( Terrace ) were quite noisy when it rained due to their roof construction, they had no covered way to the Restaurant area, and only three had what could be remotely described as a distant, restricted pool view - one of which was occupied by the Saga rep. Certain work around the hotel and grounds had yet to be completed.

 

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